"My pavers are sinking"
Low spots and dips almost always trace back to what is under the pavers, not the pavers themselves. The Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute (ICPI) stresses that compacting the soil and the aggregate base is critical to minimizing settlement, with special attention near edges, drains and utility covers, which is exactly where most sinking shows up. Downspouts that dump water onto one spot and washed-out bedding sand are other common causes.
Horry County sits in South Carolina's Coastal Plain, where most soils are sandy or loamy sand and drain quickly, while low-lying spots closer to the coast tend to be more poorly drained. That variety is why a good installer looks at drainage on your specific lot. The good news: pavers can usually be lifted, the base rebuilt and the same pavers reset.
"Weeds and ants are in the joints"
Weeds and ants move in when the sand between pavers washes out or was never filled and compacted fully. The fix is to clean out the joints, refill them and compact. Polymeric (stabilized) joint sand is designed to help resist weeds, insects and erosion, and the ICPI notes stabilized sand can help where joint sand loss is a problem. It needs dry joints and dry weather to set, so manufacturers typically call for a rain-free window after it is applied, which takes planning in a rainy summer.
"The edges are spreading" or "pavers are shifting"
Pavers lock together only when the outside edge is held firmly in place. ICPI calls edge restraints a key part of the pavement; when an edge restraint is missing, loose or set at the wrong level, the border rows drift and gaps open up through the field. Ask any contractor what edge restraint they use and how it is anchored, especially along driveways and pool decks.
"There's a white haze on my new pavers"
That is usually efflorescence, a white residue that can appear on concrete pavers. ICPI notes that it does not affect structural performance, though it can be unsightly. It often fades over time, and there are cleaners made for it; ask your installer before using anything acidic on pavers.
"Should I seal pavers this close to the ocean?"
Sealing is optional, not required, and ICPI lists sealers and joint sand stabilizers as optional steps. Homeowners near the beach often choose a sealer to make salt, sand and sunscreen easier to clean off and to help hold joint sand in place. If you seal, ask for a product made for exterior concrete pavers, ask whether it changes the color or sheen, and ask how often it will need to be reapplied in full sun and salt air.
"Do I need a permit, and who do I call before digging?"
Rules depend on whether you are inside the City of Myrtle Beach or in unincorporated Horry County, and many neighborhoods also have HOA design rules for driveways and patios. Ask your contractor who checks this. For digging, SC811 asks that a locate request be submitted at least three business days before work starts, not counting the day you file, weekends or holidays.
Words to use when you call
You don't need trade terms. Tell the contractor things like:
- "The pavers by the pool are dipping and water sits there."
- "Ants keep pushing sand out between the pavers."
- "The border row on the driveway is pulling away."
- "There's a white film on the new patio."
- "We're a few blocks from the beach and want it easy to clean."
Ask before you sign
- How deep is the base and how will you compact it?
- What edge restraint will you use and how is it anchored?
- Do you recommend regular or polymeric joint sand here, and why?
- How will water drain off the patio or driveway, and where do the downspouts go?
- Is sealing included, and which product would you use near salt air?
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Sources checked 2026-11-02: ICPI Tech Spec 2: Construction of Interlocking Concrete Pavements; SC DNR: General ecoregion descriptions (Coastal Plain soils); Polybind: jointing material FAQ; SC811: homeowners.